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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. However, tucked high among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This recognition has made the family utterly surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.